چرخهای پرواز هواپیمایی ترکیه حدود ۴ صبح در فرودگاه امام خمینی تهران با زمین برخورد کرد. چهار ساعت طول کشید تا با اتومبیل از فرودگاه به اصفهان، پایتخت ایران صفوی که در زمان خود یکی از بزرگترین شهرهای جهان بود برسیم. در طول مسیر آثار باستانی به جای مانده در مسیر جاده ابریشم که بازرگانان از آن برای سفر از چین و هند به دریای مدیترانه استفاده میکردند به چشم میخورد. نه فقط ابریشم، بلکه ادویه، صنایع دستی، تکنولوژی، فرهنگ، مذهب و به طور خلاصه تمدن از این مسیر گذشته است. اشکال و رنگ طبیعت و کوهها نفس انسان را بند میآورد. همه چیز موزون است.
در طول مسیر در گذر از روستاها و شهرستانها تصاویر و اسامی شهدای جنگ ایران و عراق نصب شده. تمام شهرهای ایران تصویر شهدای خود را در معرض نمایش قرار میدهند تا یادشان فراموش نشود. ایرانیها بسیار نسبت به شهدای جنگ حساس هستند و به آنها احترام میگذارند. در دسامبر گذشته در تهران، یادبود شهدای یهودی این جنگ نیز نصب شد.
صدام حسین در سال ۱۹۸۰ از ترس اینکه شیعیان سرکوبشده عراق به پیروی از انقلاب ایران سر به شورش بگذارند به ایران حمله کرد تا خود را به عنوان قدرت برتر دنیای عرب نشان دهد. پانصد هزار سرباز ایرانی و عراقی و پانصد هزار غیرنظامی در این جنگ کشته شدند. صدام از سلاحهای شیمیایی استفاده کرد و موجب کشته شدن ۱۵۰ هزار ایرانی شد. آیتالله خمینی رهبر ایران ساخت و استفاده از سلاح شیمیایی را برای انتقام از حملات عراق ممنوع کرد. این تصمیم حتی پس از آنکه صدام در سال ۱۹۸۷ منطقه کردنشین سردشت را بمباران کرد و هشت هزار نفر را در معرض گاز خردل قرار داد تغییر نکرد. او مصر بود که استفاده از این سلاحها خلاف اصول اسلام است. زخمهای جنگ هنوز در جای جای کشور به چشم میخورد.
در مزار شهدا در تخت فولاد اصفهان قدم میزنم. مزار کسانی را میبینم که ۱۴ سال بیشتر سن نداشتند. به من میگویند، آنها سرباز نبودند، بلکه آدمهای عادی بودند که تفنگ به دست گرفتند و به جنگ عراقیها رفتند. در کنار این گورستان، یک تابلوی سرامیکی زیبا وجود دارد که رویش نوشته: این مقبره متعلق به حضرت یوشای نبی، یکی از پیشگامان و رهبران بنیاسرائیل است. وقتی به سمت قبر این پیامبر یهودی میروم پسری نزدیک میشود و خرما تعارف میکند. ایرانیها مردم بسیار وطنپرستی هستند. دفاع از کشورشان از مسایل قومی و مذهبی مهمتر است.
از اصفهان که یونسکو آن را در فهرست میراث جهانی قرار داده، اولین بار در دوران تمدن ایلامیها ۱۶۰۰-۲۷۰۰ پیش از میلاد نام برده شده اما در قرن شانزدهم در دوران صفوی به اوج خود میرسد. شهر به خاطر آثار بینظیرش شهره است: سی و سه پل، پل خاجو و مرنان، مسجد آقانور و کاخ چهل ستون، کاخ هشت بهشت، کاخ سلطنتی قرن هفدهمی، میدان نقش جهان که در سال ۱۶۰۲ ساخته شده و بسیاری آثار دیگر. این شهر بخاطر غنایش به نصف جهان مشهور است. اصفهان مدرن منزلگاه یکی از بزرگترین کارخانههای تولید فولاد در جهان نیز محسوب میشود.
مهماننوازی ایرانیها استثنایی است. از مسئول پذیرش هتل عباسی که ۳۰۰ سال پیش توسط سلطان حسین صفوی ساخته شده و قدیمیترین هتل فعال جهان محسوب میشود گرفته تا راهنمای سفر، فروشندگان بازار مشهور شهر، همه با گرمی از شما استقبال میکنند. بارها و بارها شنیدم که “از آمریکا آمدهاید، خوش آمدید! خوش آمدید!” مغازهداری که از او سوغات خریدم آنقدر خوشحال بود که یک مشتری از آمریکا دارد که به من چای و شیرینی تعارف کرد. او گفت: “ما آمریکا را دوست داریم و امیدواریم دوباره با هم دوست شویم. وقتی برگشتید لطفا این را به دوستانتان بگویید.”
به احترام دوستانی که در سفر به ایران پیدا کردم این کار را میکنم و این داستان ادامه خواهد داشت.
نویسنده: ساشا توپریچ
منبع: هافینگتون پست 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12 ژانویه 2015